If you are planning to open a locksmith shop and have no idea what
locksmith tool, just go on reading this post to get the answer, this
post will tell what kind of key programmers (and other hardware) I have,
and what they are good for. I don’t think that it will be better than
others wrote about, but I have some experience using ’em
*** Thanks to @PocketHero (DK member)
Key Programmer:
–
CK100 (V99.99)
–
SBB2(V2017)
–
FVDI
– AVDI
–
Tango
– Super VAG
–
Lonsdor K518ISE + SK-LT (Newest available) Updated
– Super VAG K-CAN 2
(and lots of cheap tools like Op-Com, 4in1 (Ford, Mazda, Renault,
Nissan), VAGcom etc. They were too cheap to not to buy, but I don’t use
them.)
Eprommers:
– XProg-M 5.0 (chinese version)
– Orange5
– VVDI Prog 4.6.7 Updated
– Rosfar 3000 v7.8s
– TL866A
– AK90+ 3.19 Updated
Key cloners:
– ZedBull (Chinese version)
– Handy Baby + JMD key Updated
– RW4 Plus + M-box
Remote programmer:
– KD900
– VPC100
–
Mini CN900
– Xhorse Remote Key Programmer
– VAGcom
– OPcom
– 4 in 1 (Renault, Nissan, Mazda & Ford programmer)
– MVP Pro
– Tango Clone
Update:
– CAS 2-3 & 4 tester
– MDP Programmer: XEP100
– SKP1000
– TMPro2
Let’s see the details:
– CK100:
A must have. Ideal to use it with SKP900. Cheap enough to have one, and
sometimes it does wonders. Nice and easy to use, has 1032 tokens when
you get it. Cheap token refill, and charges in 50% no tokens. I’ve a pdf
on my phone with the compatibility list, so I can allways check if it
can do the car, or not. Sometimes it does the newest cars too, for
example a 2016 Ford Flex with smart keys. I had to buy an old Daewoo
converter to it, but that’s all. Has some limited pin-code tools, but
don’t wait for wonders. There are no update functions, but who cares for
this money
You can get it from $70 with free shipping.
– SBB2:
A must have. I got it for last x-mas from me It is not so easy to use
for the first look, but it has oddometer-correction tool, and can use
.bin files or read directly from an eprommer. Has the same
connector-collection as the SKP, is meant to be the next generation. It
is said that it has all the function of the CK100, but I’ve found lots
of diferences. Another advance is that it can read and delete trouble
codes (DTCS), and clear oil change periods. This didn’t work on a 2010
Kangoo II. It can be updated via internet, never tried, but it is said
to be working. Better pin tool than the CK, but nothing extraordinary.
Cheap enough for its knowledge, you can get it for $140 with free
shiping.
– FVDI:
Cheap solution for the poors. It is the chinese clone of Abrites, with
limited abilities. If you want to buy it, then try to get an older one,
because the new ones are the clones of a clone. I don’t want to waste
time on detailed description, it can help a lot or freezee without any
marks or destroy the connected car‘s parts – but it is cheaper than
cheap, you can get it from $100 with free shiping.
– AVDI:
Professional tool for professionals (only). The best thing what you can
have for programming and so on – for a lots of money. If you are a
professional, you can’t do your work without it: does a lots of cars via
OBDII, what other tools can’t (Benzs, Jag XK, various models of VAG
group, aso). A class of its own. The prices are high enough to wait out
the promotions (x-mas, aso). For the beginning buy only that module,
what you mostly need, and buy the other modules when you can’t avoid it.
At the moment the Benz module is the best on the market what you can
buy. Full package costs more, than $30.000, yearly subscription €200.
– Tango:
Another must have. It is modular like AVDI or TMProII, with limited free
functionality for each manufacturers. The whole BMW package is free, so
you have to get it if you have to deal with Beemers. To be honest it
has lots of weak points, but the documentation what is included makes it
worth to pay for: pictures of the devices what you have to look for,
sometimes with location and unmount pics; list of the transponders what
you can use to the chosen task; the name of the chip what you have to
deal with. Packages are from 50€, you get the activation code in e-mail
very fast, but can depend on your dealer. So much from the good side,
let’s see the weak points: It comes often, that you can’t open the .bin
files for their name, just have to find out where the program accepts
it. For example: Yaris as Corolla, Insignia as Camaro, Cordoba as Polo,
Picanto as C’eed, aso. It gives some well-known problems: can’t do
anything with the RB8 controllers, aso. It is a bit uncommon, that it
wants to be updated allways, but who cares, it goes fast enough via
smart phone too.
However: you have to buy this to be able to do your work, so take a deep breath, and pay: 1200€ for the basic sw+hw.
– SuperVAG:
Czeh curse upon us. 1000€ without oddometer correction, only for the
Volkswagen group. This sounds fine, but they promise 1 year free update –
even in September – what lasts only till January. In many cases the
program says, that the key programing is blocked, try again later – but
no words about how long to wait. The pin tool works rhapsodic: some
times great, some times clean time wasting. Another weak point is the
RB4/8.
The manufacturer said that the instrument cluster module is a good
solution without soldering. My question is only “what is it good for –
absolutly nothing”… The module says what to do, and when you follow the
instructions, then it ends with an error message. You can try it many
times, it won’t deliver the needed result, as long you follow the
popups. When (after several tries) you try to change, and press “no”
instead “yes”, then the things begin to change, and you could get the
needed result. You could. Tried this module 3 diferent cars, then did
the same work with soldering: the result shows that it is much more
faster when you do it on the oldschool way.
Another joke is the yearly €160 for updates. Better spend this money on Abrites, it is much more worth of it.
– Lonsdor:
I can’t really say if it is worth of its price, or not. I think I got a
broken OBD-cable with the tablet, thats why it sometimes works, some
times stops with connection error. Have to deal it with the seller, but
thats another story. The tool is easy to use, has a lots of functions,
in many places with screenshots how it should work. Not a cheap toy
($1400 with the Toyota pack), but I think it could be a good tool for
the daily use (when you already bought it). Needs internet connection
(at least once a week to check for updates) for some actions.
To be honest I’ve spent a lot of times to test it for DK, and I think it
promises a lot, but now it is too weak in knowledge for this money. But
if you already have it, you can hope that they will work on updates
harder as a rock.
Update: It seems to be working now (at least with smart key cars). The
making of a smart key for a ’14 Dodge Charger was fast & easy: the
only trick was that I had to chose Journey from the wehicle list. Pin
reading and programing was done in 2 mins.
’13 Jaguar XJ: smart key programing in 2 mins
’14 Jaguar XK: chanceless (only Abritas knows this car today)
’13 Megane III Ph2: no pin reading, asks for pin to be able to do programming.
’11 Clio III Ph2 Grand Tour: Nothing. No communication.
2 pcs Astra H: No pin; 4 pcs Astra G: No pin; and a Corsa C: no pin.
’17 Mustang Shelby GT350: It was harder to get out the rubber pad from
the cup holder, than the programing itself. Smart key added in 1 min.
’04 Clio II Ph2 30 sec without pin
’10 Megane III Ph1 RS under one minute with hands free cards
’08 Dodge RAM 1500: it toke 5 mins to catch that it has to be programed
as it were younger than 2012. With that setting under a minute with pin
extraction.
’07 E60 Beemer: The customer had a chinese folding key with 315 MHz and
he paid for just the trying – we told him that it won’t work – the only
thing was that we had to re-activate the original keys. I think it can
be done when you use the factory diamond 868 MHz keys.
’13 Dodge Charger smart key OK
’15 Ford Edge remote key OK, under 2 mins.
’04 & ’06 Megane II: under a minute, normal cards
’15 Dodge Challenger: under 2 mins OK
Won’t work with the Transit Connect variants (small furgons), neither
Custom, Passenger, Tourneo. Tried only 5 of ’em from 2006 to a 2016 Eco
Flex – no communication, or connection lost after reading the VIN. You
can try it as Focus and Fiesta too – the result will be the same. I’ve
made the programming mostly with the SKP900.
’15 Chrysler Town & Country under 30 secs with pin extraction
’11 Ford Transit (Normal big one) under 2 mins with AKL solution
Strange, but true: If you chose AKL @ Transit, then you can program only
one key too, the difference is that the remote controller will be
disabled, and the immo LED won’t switch off, but you can start the car.
Tested @ my mates transit, worked fine with only one key fine for 3
days, then was the second key added, because he hated to open the
backdoor with two turns to open direction on the driver’s door. When I
added the second key, the remote began to work again (was added before
teaching key).
I think it is a good tool if you have to deal with smart keys – if
pin is needed and the Lonsdor can’t deliver it I don’t try again when i
get the codes.
– Super VAG K-CAN 2:
Just to solve the RB4 / RB8 problem by Audis. Cheap enough to save you
in such situatinos. I got it 2 weeks ago, but had no possibility to try
it. With free shiping only 70 bucks.
I don’t know how others think about that situation when you can’t
read out the content of a chip, but I swear to myself that it won’t
happen again. That’s why I have so much eprommers, just to avoid such
situations.
–
XProg-M:
Good tool, but not necessary to have (or get a chinese one). It was the
first one what I had, but you can find where it leaks sooner as you
could think. It was and is a very good eprommer. Very good if you have
to deal with Motorolas, but not so universal than the O5, or the VVDI
Prog. If you buy the original one, it can be expansive: €2000 for the
full set with all the sw authorization and connectors, but you can get
the chinese clone of v5.5 from $50.
Warning: The cheap version can cause troubles, because it is built from
cheapest parts. Sometimes 0.01 V difference can cause expensive troubles
– Orange5:
A must have. You can’t avoid to get it if you want to do the car work
seriously. Good for EEPROMs, MCUs, has a good Immo-content. This
immo-part can be very helpful: in many cases you have only to solder
some vires to the PCB, and you can read/write the needed content.
Contains tons of pictures of immo-boxes, ECUs, and other PCBs; chip
pinouts, and lots of useful informations. The basic kit costs only €350,
I suggest to pay a bit more, and buy all the needed connectors with the
basic kit: SOIC8 DIP8, SOIC8 14 soldering, SSOP8, Lead whith clips
POMONA SOIC8 & DIP8, PQFP52 PQFP80, TMS374, 912 908 and 705E6
in-circuit leads, HC11ES and 05B6 WDT VW chip connectors (be getle with
’em, otherwise you have to buy a new one after 5-10 uses), ST62xx,
908AS60/AZ60 QFP64, all Motorola connectors. You will see how often do
you use this connectors, and you can re-order the frequently needed
ones.
–
VVDI Prog:
The best 2nd eprommer what you can get (for moderate price). Mostly used
for Beemer and Benz in our shop. Not too expensive, but easy 2 use. I
bought it when we had difficulties with a Beemer and the problem was
solved in no time. Has good pictures for in-circuit-use, and needs less
connectors as the O5 for the daily use. A bit uncommon look, but you can
find everything if you look with open eyes Free updates and
compatibility with all other X-Horse product. With free shiping costs
$400, thanks to its origin no clones are available.
Update: It f**kked away a ’08 W169 A class’s flash. Toke a lot of time
to repair it. My dealer said that it can happen often @ Benzs. Maybe the
only way to avoid data loss is to push the “Read ID” button first. If
the identification is ok, then you have your chance (tested on a ’11
W245 B class). Other mistake was made by a CAS4 reading of this
eprommer. Can’t tell ya more about this just readed about it.
– Rosfar
To be honest never used this tool. I’m pretty sure, that it has its
potential, but better don’t spend money on this except you get it used
around 50-100 bucks. Has no support, the original company went bankrupt,
and the new owner does nothing, just sells the existing stuff for
€1000. It was a good tool 10 years ago – but now it is overaged. I can’t
really tell why I bought it (because it was cheap and supports Beemer),
but God only knows when it can come handy. Works with EWS1-4, CAS1-2.
– TL866A
Cheap chinese toy, has 24 connectors. Bought it when I couldn’t find a
TTL connector to the exsisting ones, and my dealer was on holiday. I got
it within a week, seems to be correct enough. Since its arrival I used
to it only once to test it. The binaries were the same readed by TL
& O5, so I put it back to its box, and not used anymore. As far I
see it is a perfect hobby tool, costs only $40 with free shiping. When
compared with X-Prog I would prefer the other eprommer, or buy both of
’em (only the cheap version!).
– AK90
Too cheap to not to have it if you have to deal with old BMWs. Excellent
EWS tool, makes everyone happy: the customer can get a cheap remote
key, and you can make fast profit. Has plug-on-chip connectors, what are
doing its work perfectly if you remove the protecting resin from the
chip pins. Does all EWS protocols, but be cautious it can delete the
2D47J content.
You can get it from $25 with free shiping.
Update: Since a half year or so it gives the next generation of the tool
called ‘AK91(+)’ around $400. Just don’t spend your money on this, a
lots of devices know the EWS 4.4 programing for a better price
Another extension is the X-Prog, R270 and AK90 adapter for EWS 4.3 &
4.4. Needs no soldering, no on-chip-reading, you have only to fasten
the PCB in it, and you can read and write the datas. The price is approx
$35 with free shipping – I think it is worth to get it for hobbist and
pros too
Key cloning is one of the most important part of our job. My policy
is “better cloned as programed”, because a cloned chip works for sure;
while you can have lots of unexpected errors when you try to add a new
key.
– ZedBull
Good tool, but overaged. I have the cheap Chinese version, and have
downloaded the EFfI sw to be able to use all functions of it. Cheapest
way to clone, but has its own limits, whats are easy to reach with ID46
and 48 chips. Nothing to risk with its $20 price (mostly with free
shipping), but don’t take it too serious
–
Handy Baby
A must have! At the moment it is the best handheld cloner, what you can
get. With the JMD key expansion it can save you with ease when you have
to deal with VWs – even in AKL situations. It is not a wonder weapon, in
practice it needs time for calculations (some times 45 mins), but in
the meantime you can cut the key, aso. Never tried with G-chips, so I
can just tell ya that it is said to be working. Has built-in batteries,
and you can always charge it from your car – ideal tool to take with
you. The special transponders are cheap enough to save you a lot of
money compared to the RW4, and the main unit costs only $350, the JMD
Key box around $250, and the G-chip authorization (if not included) $80,
always with free shiping.
Update: They stopd selling the JMDD, JMD6, JMD8 chips, instead of ’em
you can buy Blue or Red King Chips. The blue one is for everything
except ID48 for the usual price, the red is for ID48 much expensive.
Some news in the following threads:
– RW4 Plus
For professionals (only). It is made by Silca, that means it is
expensive. I bought it together with the M-Box (in a special promotion
with 10 ID48 and 40 GTI chips), when my Handy Baby couldn’t clone the
key of a TT. It works with special devices called “snoop”s, one for ID46
and another (M-Snoop) for ID48. It needs internet connection for
calculating a 48 transponder, can take 20 mins or more for the whole
procedure. Works only with the expensive Silca transponder chips, so I
try to avoid its usage if possible to save profit. Good point, that you
can power it from your car or from AC, but its size is too big to take
it always with you. Its price was (in special promotion) €2100, ask your
locale dealer about promotions – otherwise it can be €3000 or more with
ease.
In our profession you can’t overcome the remote key fobs, so there comes the best solution what I could find for this…
– KD900
Another must have. It can save your a$$ in the most important moments,
so don’t hesitate – innovate! With PC sw for that cars what are more
difficult as the others it works fine, can save you a lots of money ‘coz
its remotes are cheaper than the originals, and are easy to code ’em
for almost every car. Usually I don’t have anything else for the VAG
group, in rare cases I replace the KEYDI head with original Audi (for
the logo) and the customer has a cheap Audi remote, we have our profit.
This tool is good for everybody: the cheapest for own use, the 900 for
pros.
You can buy the KD stuffz from $25 (Phone version), the 900 costs $230 with free shiping. Remotes are available from $6.5/pcs
– VPC100
A real joke. They say that this is a pin code calculator – I say it is a
dust collector. It works with tokens, for the beginning you get 100 (I
got 300, another 200 net-tokens too, to be able to count pins on the vpc
website). I don’t know why, but usually it counts more than one token
for the worst results too. For example: Nissan Almera 2004. Date code is
11924A; encrypted pin is E0D4 and the NATS came from Mexico. Pin is
8568. The VPC website delivers the same result for 4 web-tokens (8 if
you don’t register a machine), but you need a bit experience what to
enter and where and how… BUT: the device itself delivers the same result
for 4 tokens – staying at this example. We met such Almeras, where the
net and the device version gave out wrong results. It does not know the
Infinmity keycode (can be counted from VIN), charges you for 4 token @
Hyundai/Kia pin code (CK100 gives it for free) and so on. If you are
looking around you can find @ the download section the programs for free
what can avoid the usage of this tool.
Nowadays it costs ~$25 with 100 tokens.
– Mini CN900
Meant to beat out the Handy Baby from the market, but as far I see
without success. This one is the handheld version of the CN900, as the
developers said with all of its abilities. Ok, this info comes from my
dealer: the mini knows only 80% of the HB’s work tested on real cars. If
you have handy baby you don’t need the cn. Price is around $150 with
free shiping.
– Xhorse Remote Key Programmer
Never owned, gives better ones. This is the alternative when you don’t
want to have lots of devices: a mini CN900 built in one box with a KD900
clone. Some of the owners talks about this tool as it were the Holy
Grail, others try to sell it fast after its arrival. The fact is that
the Handy Baby is more better than the mini CN, and the KD is good and
stabile. I can imagine only one situation where it can be useful: if you
have a lots of original factory remotes without cars, because this toy
has a renewing pad kit for original remotes. The cloner works only with
its own transponders, around $3.5 a piece, what equals the Handy Baby
chip prices (except the blue/king chips); the remotes are also in the
same price (around $10). It costs $220 with free shiping, another $320
for the remote renew kit, or together for $499.
– VAGcom
Uncomfortable. I bought it coz it was to cheap enough to buy it, but is
too difficult to use. A simple Seat remote re-teaching can be done in
three different places – I better prefer the SKP900 for this. Some are
swearing, that this is a good tool, but to be honest it is too
uncomfortable for me. Yo can get it for $6 with free shiping, so you
don’t risk anything when you get it.
– OPcom for Opel/Vauxhal
Another too cheap tool – but I didn’t succeed to install it. It is said
to be able to read pins trough OBD from Astra G or younger, but I
couldn’t do anything with it. You can get it from China from $12 with
free shiping
– 4 in 1
Cheap toy for everyone. Bought it because it can be used for Renault,
Nissan, Mazda and Ford. I couldn’t use it because I don’t like to run
around with a laptop, when other tools can solve my problem too. The
Nissan part couldn’t read out pin from a NATS2 device, then the Renault
part wasn’t able to do programing on a Thalia – so I drop it out from my
car. I think it is a more-than-nothing tool for hobbists, costs only
$30 with free shiping.
– MVP Pro
The big question. Another Silca tool, that means it is damn expensive.
My pal bought it, so he can lend it to me when I need it ;D The most
important thing is that it works with tokens. Very expensive tokens if
you ask me, because usually I pay 10€ for a token. I know it is cheaper
when we buy 100 or more, but I think it is near to robery.
The tool itself is modular, you can buy only the needed parts, but I
think if you give money for this, then get the fully featured version. I
use it as ‘the last possibility’ when nothing else works. It worked
only once when I couldn’t teach an Alfa 147 factory remote key in AKL
situation. All other tries were just a shoot in the dark, but in that
cases the cars were damaged.
The price of the full version is around $3700 or 2000 quids + VAT depends on your contry and dealer.
You can get a chinese clone of this device, costs around $150 with free
shiping – can’t tell ya anything about it, wasn’t drunk enough to order
it ;D
– Tango Chinese clone
God! Have mercy! A real crap. Mostly you can’t trust it, but has all sw
packets what the original can offer. The only positive thing what I can
tell ya is the built-in full documentation what the original had. Ok, it
is not so tragic as it seems for the first look, but it makes often
mistakes. I think €200 is too much for the documentation only when the
hw itself is worthless, and sooner or later you have to buy the original
one.
– CAS testers
Good toys when needed. I bought ’em together with my X6 on IKS ’17 from a
Polish company. The price was €100 for each (CAS2-3, CAS4). They are a
bit expensive, but can help you out if you get only the CAS module to
make keys from it. With the use of ’em you can be absolutly sure that
your key works fine – avoids a lots of troubles when the car is
defected.
– XEP100 Prog
Another tool for pros only. In full version it costs €4800 what is a lot
of money for a single eprommer. Ok, that’s the full version with tablet
and everything, but… You have support with it. I mean real one. Not
like Simon Touch’s unreachable one, but a real one. “On demand program
flashes database allow you to fix ECUs damaged by other programming
interfaces.” Another good point is “No need to heat the microprocessor
within any temperature range”. My dealer ordered one, I will see when I
can test it, and how far are the producers promises true. Until then I
can only tell ya that I haven’t met bad reputation about this tool.
– SKP1000
Only when you want to waste your money! It is a good tool, the next
generation of SKP900 with epromer and everything what you can can call
trendy today. The only problem is, that SuperOBD stopped supporting, so
it is chanceless, like the Troyan woodhorse on the Derby of Epsom.
Originaly was designed @ superobd, but produced by Lonsdor. It has
oddometer, oil change and other options, but costs $500, what is too
expensive for a dead tool. Looks & works like the 518ISE. The token
system was removed, so I think we lost a good tool with it. RIP.
– TMPro2
Expensive alternative of Tango. The original hardware is cheap – and
that’s the only thing what’s easy to get. The tool has lots of modules
(208 at the moment) and the cheapest ones costs €100, but gives lots of
modules over 1000 euro. It gives some modules that are able to use such
binaries what no ther tool can, but they are insanely expensive. If
money doesn’t matters, then this is the best choice what you can make;
otherwise depends only on your customers what is what you have to build
up: Tango or TMPro. The main software without modules and hardware is
free to use, but is only able to tell about a binary file when that’s
good or not. The main hardware is between 89-150 euro. I think I won’t
pay for this nearly €30.000.- to have the full version. (Maybe cheaper
if you buy the whole package together…)
